Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Panama Airport - PTY - The Way to Fly

Okay, well, for the most part, when living in Panama you have to get used to the fact that things aren't terribly efficient. Just a fact of life. But, one place in this city is the epitome of efficacy...and it's the last place one would expect - the airport! Yes, the one place where you can almost always expect things to run like clockwork or possibly even faster is PTY, the Panama City (Tocumen) international airport. I've flown in and out of many places in my short but well-traveled life and no airport functions with the efficiency of PTY... No, seriously, there's no sarcasm in this posting.

The other day, my husband and I disembarked, went through immigration, picked up our bags, and were through customs within a mere 20 minutes, ok, maybe 25. They have the process down to a science. Each time we go through, I ask myself how on earth this is possible. 20 minutes? In which major US airport would this be possible? And, mind you, Panama is the hub for most flights to/from other countries in Latin America. No small beans, my friends.

Boarding is almost as easy. I know you are supposed to be at the airport at least 2 hours early, but honestly, most of the time we are sitting in the waiting room within 30 minutes of our arrival to the airport. To be fair here, we do usually print out our tickets at home and use mainly carry-on luggage (but the carry-on has a tendency to expand on the way home either from clothing miraculously multiplying or horrendous re-packing). By the way, if you print out tickets at home, don't forget to ask for the required departure form once at the gate. I digress... Anyway, the point being, the security check point is also quite rapid. From taxi to gate in 30 minutes most days.

Net, flying to PTY is heavenly - especially after coming from Newark Int'l - that, however, would be a story for another blog, from which I will spare you.

Happy flying!

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Find One Thing You Love

One day, out of the blue, a Panamanian friend of mine said she knew I would fall in love with this country. She could tell because I had already become concerned for the people, had started to understand the history and culture, and yes, there was an occasional spark in my eye indicating that this place was giving me energy rather than sucking it out of me.

She had also lived abroad some years back and had encountered difficulties. Her home away from home was Chile. She had remembered that, despite speaking the same language and having similar cultures, she felt completely disoriented, friendless, insecure, and eventually filled with apathy for everything around her. When asked if she liked Chile back then, she couldn’t find one positive thing to say - not one - until a Chilean told her to find one thing, just one thing, to love about the country. She chose the mountains. From then on, when anyone asked her how she liked living there, her answer would be, “Oh, I love the mountains!” She started to make friends and saw a change in the way people around her reacted and treated her.

As for me, there are many things I can honestly say I love about Panama – the mountains, the oceans – especially the Caribbean side with San Blas and Isla Grande, Casco Viejo and the Causeway (or Amador). I love the view from my balcony. I love the friends I’ve made. I love that when people open their hearts to you, they open their arms and homes as well. I love that unless I have to wake up at 4:30 a.m. for an early flight, I always wake up with natural light. I love that there are almost always 12 hours of light – maybe not sunshine, but light – every day. I love that it’s relatively safe. I think I’m even beginning to like the catcalls from the construction workers.

So, yes, I’m getting used to it here. I can honestly say that I love Panama – in parts. No place is perfect. I still believe that it takes 3 years before any place feels 100% like home. For now, I’m going to continue to seek out new things to love and hope that one day this place feels like home.

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Panamanian National and Cultural Identity

I haven’t written in a while. My excuse is four-fold: traveling, hosting guests, no internet connection, and laziness. Forgive me.

Anyway, on to the next topic…

National and Cultural Identity

You know that when you are in a new place, you’d love for a person to just describe what his/her culture is. What’s important to them? What really matters? What makes them tick? What makes sense out of what seems to be nonsense to the newcomer?

Obviously, even in our own culture, we aren’t always sure what makes our society work the way it does, but it feels so natural that we don’t question it. We understand our role and most everyone else’s as well. We understand the different parts of our culture – both those that we are consciously aware of like ethnicity, gender and language and those things which hide under the surface, like body language, problem-solving strategies, and authority.

So, I posed the question – What is the Panamanian Identity? 5 different Panamanians and all 5 with the same answer - There is none. Seriously? That was disturbing to me that they didn’t feel they “identified” with other Panamanians. Perhaps I had asked the question incorrectly. After all, my Spanish is good but not great. Probing more deeply, I found that Panamanians are profoundly nationalistic; though I’m told the last act of nationalism took place in 1964.

A brief description of that last nationalistic act as described in Wikipedia:
Martyrs' Day is a Panamanian holiday, which commemorates the January 9, 1964 riots over sovereignty of the Panama Canal Zone. The riot started after a Panamanian flag was torn during conflict between Panamanian students and Canal Zone Police officers, over the right of the Panamanian flag to be flown alongside the U.S. flag.
U.S. Army units became involved in suppressing the violence after Canal Zone police were overwhelmed, and after three days of fighting, about 21 Panamanians and four U.S. soldiers were killed. The incident is considered to be a significant factor in the U.S. decision to transfer control of the Canal Zone to Panama through the 1977 Torrijos-Carter Treaties.

As one of my Panamanian friends so well pointed out, nationalism is rarely focused inward but gained through unity against a common “enemy”.

Later, one of my older Panamanian friends said that she had incorrectly answered me when she said Panamanians have no identity. There is a very clear identity. They are a bridge between nations and cultures, a bridge between the Mayas and the Incas, a place to stop but not to stay. They are a bridge that has connected the world and changed it.

She went on to say that they are geographically Central American, historically South American, and culturally Caribbean. They are a melting pot – a melting pot that doesn’t recognize color. (I will refrain for my thoughts on that last one, but again, I am an outsider looking in)

In fact, she is right about Panama being a bridge.

Panama’s geographical location has changed the World as we know it. When the isthmus of Panama rose from the sea, or the seas receded (depending on your point to view), the water currents changed, the Caribbean Sea was formed, marine life was separated creating new species, and air currents changed making places like Europe warmed places to live. Panama had become a physical bridge.

Historically, it was part of Colombia. Of course, their history books say they were part of “Grand Colombia”, not the country Colombia as we know it today. They liberated themselves for their own good because they were unlike the Colombians.

I love how history has so many different perspectives, so many different truths. Our history books claim the U.S. helped Panama become independent because they were being neglected by Colombia and wanted to help them with the Canal. Colombia history books state that the U.S. stole Panama from them. As far as the Panamanians are concerned, they’re happy to be independent. Period.

And, yes, culturally, they are Caribbean, a mix of African, European, and Natives. Most people have a laid-back attitude about, well, almost everything. Outside of Panama City, most areas remain quite underdeveloped. Dance and music are important parts of life. Food has a distinctly Caribbean flare, with fresh fish, plantains, beans, rice, and yucca being served at almost every meal. Life's good.

So, Panamanians are the cultural bridge of all those who pass through and of those who have decided to stay.

Monday, January 17, 2011

It's like giving your baby to a stranger

Yesterday my husband and I went to the grocery store. As seems to be the norm nowadays, we had yet another deluge. So, my husband, being the gentleman that he is, ran out into the storm to retrieve the car and pick me up. Within those few seconds that he was gone, a gentleman tapped on the shoulder, asked to hold his baby, and without waiting for a response, handed me the little one - I'm guessing a 6-month old - and he promptly ran off into the rain. Befuddled, I just stood there. Thoughts that crossed my mind - gee, I must look like a trustworthy enough person for someone to give me his child without knowing me, and then, oh, goodness, did this man just leave his baby with me??? Well, we got the groceries packed up and were ready to go. No sign of the man. My hubby was a little concerned the baby was getting too comfy, laying his head on my shoulder and snuggling up nice and tight. (What a wonderful warm fuzzy feeling - sorry for the 80s terminology) A few anxious minutes later, the dad showed up, thanked me, and took his baby back.

Just another one of those experiences I never thought I'd have. But, it's nice to know that there is still a place in the world where people still trust other people enough to give their baby to a stranger and feel confident that no harm will be done.

Of course, had the guy run off and left the baby with me, hmmmm... now that would have been a dilemma.

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

Water Crisis in PTY

Well, it's been 24 days now since we were informed that the water treatment facility was damaged due to unusually high levels of sediment seeping into the filtration machinery. Since then, water production has been at about 10%. Many in the city have been without water completely or have had to deal with water outages for 27 hours at a time. Those of us who live in buildings with reserve tanks have been fortunate enough to not feel the full effects of this crisis, even considering that the water supply to our neighborhood will be cut for 48 hours today and tomorrow. Of course, we have been asked to take voluntary measures to protect the water supply, but we are giving up very little in comparison to some.

However, now, the yellow water is reaching us all. We've been asked to boil water or buy it in order to drink. Yesterday, I stood in line to buy water at one of the few grocery stores that still had water available for purchase. We were limited to 30 20 oz. bottles per family, 24 of which had to be imported French water - yes, liquid gold.

The authorities claim that this is an act of nature, and that they are doing all they can to solve the problem. Unfortunately, the weather hasn't cooperated as they had planned. Apparently, the machinery can't be fixed until water levels decline. Water levels can't decline until "winter" (rainy season) ends. Rainy season usually ends in mid-December, but we continue to have rain almost daily. So, the question remains, will the authorities be able to find a way to solve this problem despite nature's capriciousness?

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Record Rainfall - Panama Canal Closed for Third Time in History

I know a lot of you up north have been suffering through unbearably bitter cold, snow, ice, and other types of miserable weather, but those of us 8º north of the equator have been having our share of climatologic problems as well. Until 2 days ago, I wasn’t sure the sun still existed. In the 73 years that climate records have been kept, it has never rained so much in Panama. People have died, landslides have wiped out communities, roads have collapsed, and bridges have been rendered impassable. Additionally, on December 9, 2010, the canal was even closed for the first time in 21 years. (The last time occurred when the US sent troops in to topple Noriega and his government.) In other words, the country’s main source of income was shut down for a day.

What exactly happened to shut the canal down? Water overflowed the banks of both Lake Gatun and Lake Alajuela, which supply the canal. This made it impossible to use the locks that transfer boats through the canal. In order to improve the situation, the floodgates in both lakes had to be opened causing more than 1500 people to be evacuated from nearby neighborhoods. Homes, lost.

Adding insult to injury, a mudslide in the Caribbean coastal town of Portobelo killed eight people and left the community of 3,000 inhabitants cut off from the rest of the country. The total number of dead is 10. In what the Panamanians call “the interior” of the country over 6,000 people, and 50,000 hectares of crops have been affected and domestic animals due to the heavy rains. In total, 33 communities were flooded.

And, now, as a repercussion to all of this rain, one of the water treatment plants has been working at only about 10% of capacity over the past 3 days. Too much mud is clogging the system. No one is sure when it will be fixed.

La Niña (“The girl” – a phenomenon that causes extreme weather) has been blamed for all of this. What’s the expression – “Hell have no fury like a woman scorned.” So, what did we do to upset this girl so much?

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Expat Info Taken Directly from Cartus Relocation - My (few) Comments in Quotes

Market Focus: Panama.

Relocating, especially with family, is never easy. There are many changes that need to be handled and each family has different situations to address. In addition, there are other factors that may dramatically affect the success of the relocation process, such as the new location.

What makes a location more appealing than others to expats? Statistical information about countries offer a general perspective, but this article explores important categories that make Panama a pleasant place for expatriates to live.

Commuting time: It ranges from between 5 to 40 minutes from any point of the metro area to P&G Offices. Whether you like the urban or suburban lifestyle both are within reasonable time and distance from your main offices.

"This is quite true, for the most part. My husband can be door to door in 20 minutes as he travels counter traffic flow. However, traffic is getting worse. You just need to learn to schedule around peak hours."

Helpers: You do not need to plan a dinner out with friends two weeks in advance depending on a baby sitter… Simply decide to go on the spot! Domestic Helpers are part of the Panamanian culture, homes are designed with helper´s quarters, and salaries range from $250 to $350 per month.

"Ok, first thing you need to decide is if you want someone to live with you full-time. It may be the best decision you've ever made, or it could feel like the biggest invasion of privacy, depending on what you are used to or can get used to. Most internationals tend to pay around $400/month because cost of living is on the rise, and it just seems fair. I'm told that just a few years ago most people paid maids around $8/day, whereas internationals now pay around $20/day. Ironically, internationals are increasing cost of living by trying to pay fairly."

Groceries: Although Panama is a small place, its crossroads heritage has brought many ethnicities with their supply of ingredients in supermarkets, delis, and ethnic shops. In the main, everything is affordable… of course it depends what country you are coming from but most people will be surprised to learn that you can buy a whole 4.5 lb sirloin steak for your BBQ for US$14.00 (Shrimp, lobster and crabs are inexpensive too!).

"True. You can get almost everything you need, maybe not everything you want. One thing to note is that groceries, and many other items, tend to be cyclical. If you can't find something, look again in about 3 weeks (seriously) or in the case of vegetables, you may have to wait until next season. I remember wanting to buy a avocado for salad when we first got here and I was told every visit for 3 months that avocados would be arriving soon...meaning when they are in season in Panama."

Extracurricular Activities: Enjoy golf, scuba diving, surfing, ballet, yoga, soccer, football, baseball, martial arts, horseback riding, music… Pretty much anything but skiing! For your reference: Swimming private lessons range from US$2 to US$25 dollars; tennis from US$6 to US$25; piano or guitar $15 to $20 if the teacher comes to your place.

"For me, the challenge has been finding the activities in the city. So many things are advertised by word of mouth, or little pamphlets placed in some office, or social/country clubs, or in mommy groups or school...and recently, Facebook. I have no children, so I've stumbled through this process. Luckily, I have found the absolute best yoga instructor ever at Akila Wellness Center in Paitilla."


Continuing Education: In addition to local universities there are international universities such as Florida State, University of Louisville, Tecnológico de Monterrey, Georgia Tech Panama Logistics Innovation & Research Center, and others that offer excellent programs in Panama.

"I have a friend who got her MBA here from University of Louisville and another who got a specialization from Monterrey. I was reluctant to start a degree program not knowing how long we'd be here. This may be one of my regrets."


Outdoor activities: Nature in Panama is wonderful… A Dutch expat once shared, in genuine amazement, that she went with her 3 kids to Isla Iguana (Pacific Coast) and while snorkeling they witnessed humpback whales… Surrounded by the Caribbean and the Pacific, you can choose among many different beaches according to your preference: Deep sea fishing, scuba, snorkeling, surfing, sailing… You can also choose the highlands for coffee tasting, river rafting, canopy, trekking, bird watching, visit indigenous reserves, you name it… But whatever you decide, prepare to indulge in fresh lobster caught in front of your eyes in San Blas and cooked especially for you!

"I can't wait to explore more of this country. It is truly amazing. I'm a country girl who grew up on the coast, so getting out of the city is such a release for me - the beaches, the mountains, the rain forest...and the fresh air!"

Cultural activities: Let´s face it… the entire population of the country is 3.1 million so the cultural events on offer are not as extensive as those in big, international cities. There may not be that many operas but be amazed every month by folkloric events all over the country.
Returning to the world: And last but not least... If you decide to fulfill a personal growth experience by sharing your knowledge, talent and skills, there are a number of great causes where your voluntary work can make an impact on the environment and on the lives of others. Your talent will be welcome and appreciated in any of these organizations:
Mar Viva/Ancon – Environment Conservation
Hogar Malambo/Aldeas SOS /Casa Esperanza– Orphan Children homes
Hogares Crea, Cruz Blanca – Drug Addiction
Make a Wish/Fanlyc (Leukemia & Cancer) – Children with terminal disease
Fundacancer / Casita de Mausi – Cancer patients
Pro-Niñez / Fundación Pro-Niños del Darién - Children living in rural areas
Article provided by GS Relocation Panama

"Again, true. Very few cultural activities by US standards of a city the same size, but some great restaurants and a beautiful historic area. I have been going with a group of girls to Hogar Malambo, an orphanage outside of the city, to hold babies and play with toddlers. Just today, I attended a Christmas party that several girls from the group put together. They were able to get B-Happy, an indoor playground, to donate space and employee time, get gifts for the 50 kids who attended, have food/drinks donated, have Santa show up, AND get an amazing number of diapers, food items, cleaning supplies, etc. donated to the orphanage. I have never seen such joy in one place. So, if you miss the cultural activities, getting involved in social causes could really make a difference in how you feel about how you are spending your time."