One day, out of the blue, a Panamanian friend of mine said she knew I would fall in love with this country. She could tell because I had already become concerned for the people, had started to understand the history and culture, and yes, there was an occasional spark in my eye indicating that this place was giving me energy rather than sucking it out of me.
She had also lived abroad some years back and had encountered difficulties. Her home away from home was Chile. She had remembered that, despite speaking the same language and having similar cultures, she felt completely disoriented, friendless, insecure, and eventually filled with apathy for everything around her. When asked if she liked Chile back then, she couldn’t find one positive thing to say - not one - until a Chilean told her to find one thing, just one thing, to love about the country. She chose the mountains. From then on, when anyone asked her how she liked living there, her answer would be, “Oh, I love the mountains!” She started to make friends and saw a change in the way people around her reacted and treated her.
As for me, there are many things I can honestly say I love about Panama – the mountains, the oceans – especially the Caribbean side with San Blas and Isla Grande, Casco Viejo and the Causeway (or Amador). I love the view from my balcony. I love the friends I’ve made. I love that when people open their hearts to you, they open their arms and homes as well. I love that unless I have to wake up at 4:30 a.m. for an early flight, I always wake up with natural light. I love that there are almost always 12 hours of light – maybe not sunshine, but light – every day. I love that it’s relatively safe. I think I’m even beginning to like the catcalls from the construction workers.
So, yes, I’m getting used to it here. I can honestly say that I love Panama – in parts. No place is perfect. I still believe that it takes 3 years before any place feels 100% like home. For now, I’m going to continue to seek out new things to love and hope that one day this place feels like home.
Wednesday, March 16, 2011
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Panamanian National and Cultural Identity
I haven’t written in a while. My excuse is four-fold: traveling, hosting guests, no internet connection, and laziness. Forgive me.
Anyway, on to the next topic…
National and Cultural Identity
You know that when you are in a new place, you’d love for a person to just describe what his/her culture is. What’s important to them? What really matters? What makes them tick? What makes sense out of what seems to be nonsense to the newcomer?
Obviously, even in our own culture, we aren’t always sure what makes our society work the way it does, but it feels so natural that we don’t question it. We understand our role and most everyone else’s as well. We understand the different parts of our culture – both those that we are consciously aware of like ethnicity, gender and language and those things which hide under the surface, like body language, problem-solving strategies, and authority.
So, I posed the question – What is the Panamanian Identity? 5 different Panamanians and all 5 with the same answer - There is none. Seriously? That was disturbing to me that they didn’t feel they “identified” with other Panamanians. Perhaps I had asked the question incorrectly. After all, my Spanish is good but not great. Probing more deeply, I found that Panamanians are profoundly nationalistic; though I’m told the last act of nationalism took place in 1964.
A brief description of that last nationalistic act as described in Wikipedia:
Martyrs' Day is a Panamanian holiday, which commemorates the January 9, 1964 riots over sovereignty of the Panama Canal Zone. The riot started after a Panamanian flag was torn during conflict between Panamanian students and Canal Zone Police officers, over the right of the Panamanian flag to be flown alongside the U.S. flag.
U.S. Army units became involved in suppressing the violence after Canal Zone police were overwhelmed, and after three days of fighting, about 21 Panamanians and four U.S. soldiers were killed. The incident is considered to be a significant factor in the U.S. decision to transfer control of the Canal Zone to Panama through the 1977 Torrijos-Carter Treaties.
As one of my Panamanian friends so well pointed out, nationalism is rarely focused inward but gained through unity against a common “enemy”.
Later, one of my older Panamanian friends said that she had incorrectly answered me when she said Panamanians have no identity. There is a very clear identity. They are a bridge between nations and cultures, a bridge between the Mayas and the Incas, a place to stop but not to stay. They are a bridge that has connected the world and changed it.
She went on to say that they are geographically Central American, historically South American, and culturally Caribbean. They are a melting pot – a melting pot that doesn’t recognize color. (I will refrain for my thoughts on that last one, but again, I am an outsider looking in)
In fact, she is right about Panama being a bridge.
Panama’s geographical location has changed the World as we know it. When the isthmus of Panama rose from the sea, or the seas receded (depending on your point to view), the water currents changed, the Caribbean Sea was formed, marine life was separated creating new species, and air currents changed making places like Europe warmed places to live. Panama had become a physical bridge.
Historically, it was part of Colombia. Of course, their history books say they were part of “Grand Colombia”, not the country Colombia as we know it today. They liberated themselves for their own good because they were unlike the Colombians.
I love how history has so many different perspectives, so many different truths. Our history books claim the U.S. helped Panama become independent because they were being neglected by Colombia and wanted to help them with the Canal. Colombia history books state that the U.S. stole Panama from them. As far as the Panamanians are concerned, they’re happy to be independent. Period.
And, yes, culturally, they are Caribbean, a mix of African, European, and Natives. Most people have a laid-back attitude about, well, almost everything. Outside of Panama City, most areas remain quite underdeveloped. Dance and music are important parts of life. Food has a distinctly Caribbean flare, with fresh fish, plantains, beans, rice, and yucca being served at almost every meal. Life's good.
So, Panamanians are the cultural bridge of all those who pass through and of those who have decided to stay.
Anyway, on to the next topic…
National and Cultural Identity
You know that when you are in a new place, you’d love for a person to just describe what his/her culture is. What’s important to them? What really matters? What makes them tick? What makes sense out of what seems to be nonsense to the newcomer?
Obviously, even in our own culture, we aren’t always sure what makes our society work the way it does, but it feels so natural that we don’t question it. We understand our role and most everyone else’s as well. We understand the different parts of our culture – both those that we are consciously aware of like ethnicity, gender and language and those things which hide under the surface, like body language, problem-solving strategies, and authority.
So, I posed the question – What is the Panamanian Identity? 5 different Panamanians and all 5 with the same answer - There is none. Seriously? That was disturbing to me that they didn’t feel they “identified” with other Panamanians. Perhaps I had asked the question incorrectly. After all, my Spanish is good but not great. Probing more deeply, I found that Panamanians are profoundly nationalistic; though I’m told the last act of nationalism took place in 1964.
A brief description of that last nationalistic act as described in Wikipedia:
Martyrs' Day is a Panamanian holiday, which commemorates the January 9, 1964 riots over sovereignty of the Panama Canal Zone. The riot started after a Panamanian flag was torn during conflict between Panamanian students and Canal Zone Police officers, over the right of the Panamanian flag to be flown alongside the U.S. flag.
U.S. Army units became involved in suppressing the violence after Canal Zone police were overwhelmed, and after three days of fighting, about 21 Panamanians and four U.S. soldiers were killed. The incident is considered to be a significant factor in the U.S. decision to transfer control of the Canal Zone to Panama through the 1977 Torrijos-Carter Treaties.
As one of my Panamanian friends so well pointed out, nationalism is rarely focused inward but gained through unity against a common “enemy”.
Later, one of my older Panamanian friends said that she had incorrectly answered me when she said Panamanians have no identity. There is a very clear identity. They are a bridge between nations and cultures, a bridge between the Mayas and the Incas, a place to stop but not to stay. They are a bridge that has connected the world and changed it.
She went on to say that they are geographically Central American, historically South American, and culturally Caribbean. They are a melting pot – a melting pot that doesn’t recognize color. (I will refrain for my thoughts on that last one, but again, I am an outsider looking in)
In fact, she is right about Panama being a bridge.
Panama’s geographical location has changed the World as we know it. When the isthmus of Panama rose from the sea, or the seas receded (depending on your point to view), the water currents changed, the Caribbean Sea was formed, marine life was separated creating new species, and air currents changed making places like Europe warmed places to live. Panama had become a physical bridge.
Historically, it was part of Colombia. Of course, their history books say they were part of “Grand Colombia”, not the country Colombia as we know it today. They liberated themselves for their own good because they were unlike the Colombians.
I love how history has so many different perspectives, so many different truths. Our history books claim the U.S. helped Panama become independent because they were being neglected by Colombia and wanted to help them with the Canal. Colombia history books state that the U.S. stole Panama from them. As far as the Panamanians are concerned, they’re happy to be independent. Period.
And, yes, culturally, they are Caribbean, a mix of African, European, and Natives. Most people have a laid-back attitude about, well, almost everything. Outside of Panama City, most areas remain quite underdeveloped. Dance and music are important parts of life. Food has a distinctly Caribbean flare, with fresh fish, plantains, beans, rice, and yucca being served at almost every meal. Life's good.
So, Panamanians are the cultural bridge of all those who pass through and of those who have decided to stay.
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