Yesterday my husband and I went to the grocery store. As seems to be the norm nowadays, we had yet another deluge. So, my husband, being the gentleman that he is, ran out into the storm to retrieve the car and pick me up. Within those few seconds that he was gone, a gentleman tapped on the shoulder, asked to hold his baby, and without waiting for a response, handed me the little one - I'm guessing a 6-month old - and he promptly ran off into the rain. Befuddled, I just stood there. Thoughts that crossed my mind - gee, I must look like a trustworthy enough person for someone to give me his child without knowing me, and then, oh, goodness, did this man just leave his baby with me??? Well, we got the groceries packed up and were ready to go. No sign of the man. My hubby was a little concerned the baby was getting too comfy, laying his head on my shoulder and snuggling up nice and tight. (What a wonderful warm fuzzy feeling - sorry for the 80s terminology) A few anxious minutes later, the dad showed up, thanked me, and took his baby back.
Just another one of those experiences I never thought I'd have. But, it's nice to know that there is still a place in the world where people still trust other people enough to give their baby to a stranger and feel confident that no harm will be done.
Of course, had the guy run off and left the baby with me, hmmmm... now that would have been a dilemma.
Monday, January 17, 2011
Wednesday, January 5, 2011
Water Crisis in PTY
Well, it's been 24 days now since we were informed that the water treatment facility was damaged due to unusually high levels of sediment seeping into the filtration machinery. Since then, water production has been at about 10%. Many in the city have been without water completely or have had to deal with water outages for 27 hours at a time. Those of us who live in buildings with reserve tanks have been fortunate enough to not feel the full effects of this crisis, even considering that the water supply to our neighborhood will be cut for 48 hours today and tomorrow. Of course, we have been asked to take voluntary measures to protect the water supply, but we are giving up very little in comparison to some.
However, now, the yellow water is reaching us all. We've been asked to boil water or buy it in order to drink. Yesterday, I stood in line to buy water at one of the few grocery stores that still had water available for purchase. We were limited to 30 20 oz. bottles per family, 24 of which had to be imported French water - yes, liquid gold.
The authorities claim that this is an act of nature, and that they are doing all they can to solve the problem. Unfortunately, the weather hasn't cooperated as they had planned. Apparently, the machinery can't be fixed until water levels decline. Water levels can't decline until "winter" (rainy season) ends. Rainy season usually ends in mid-December, but we continue to have rain almost daily. So, the question remains, will the authorities be able to find a way to solve this problem despite nature's capriciousness?
However, now, the yellow water is reaching us all. We've been asked to boil water or buy it in order to drink. Yesterday, I stood in line to buy water at one of the few grocery stores that still had water available for purchase. We were limited to 30 20 oz. bottles per family, 24 of which had to be imported French water - yes, liquid gold.
The authorities claim that this is an act of nature, and that they are doing all they can to solve the problem. Unfortunately, the weather hasn't cooperated as they had planned. Apparently, the machinery can't be fixed until water levels decline. Water levels can't decline until "winter" (rainy season) ends. Rainy season usually ends in mid-December, but we continue to have rain almost daily. So, the question remains, will the authorities be able to find a way to solve this problem despite nature's capriciousness?
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Record Rainfall - Panama Canal Closed for Third Time in History
I know a lot of you up north have been suffering through unbearably bitter cold, snow, ice, and other types of miserable weather, but those of us 8º north of the equator have been having our share of climatologic problems as well. Until 2 days ago, I wasn’t sure the sun still existed. In the 73 years that climate records have been kept, it has never rained so much in Panama. People have died, landslides have wiped out communities, roads have collapsed, and bridges have been rendered impassable. Additionally, on December 9, 2010, the canal was even closed for the first time in 21 years. (The last time occurred when the US sent troops in to topple Noriega and his government.) In other words, the country’s main source of income was shut down for a day.
What exactly happened to shut the canal down? Water overflowed the banks of both Lake Gatun and Lake Alajuela, which supply the canal. This made it impossible to use the locks that transfer boats through the canal. In order to improve the situation, the floodgates in both lakes had to be opened causing more than 1500 people to be evacuated from nearby neighborhoods. Homes, lost.
Adding insult to injury, a mudslide in the Caribbean coastal town of Portobelo killed eight people and left the community of 3,000 inhabitants cut off from the rest of the country. The total number of dead is 10. In what the Panamanians call “the interior” of the country over 6,000 people, and 50,000 hectares of crops have been affected and domestic animals due to the heavy rains. In total, 33 communities were flooded.
And, now, as a repercussion to all of this rain, one of the water treatment plants has been working at only about 10% of capacity over the past 3 days. Too much mud is clogging the system. No one is sure when it will be fixed.
La Niña (“The girl” – a phenomenon that causes extreme weather) has been blamed for all of this. What’s the expression – “Hell have no fury like a woman scorned.” So, what did we do to upset this girl so much?
What exactly happened to shut the canal down? Water overflowed the banks of both Lake Gatun and Lake Alajuela, which supply the canal. This made it impossible to use the locks that transfer boats through the canal. In order to improve the situation, the floodgates in both lakes had to be opened causing more than 1500 people to be evacuated from nearby neighborhoods. Homes, lost.
Adding insult to injury, a mudslide in the Caribbean coastal town of Portobelo killed eight people and left the community of 3,000 inhabitants cut off from the rest of the country. The total number of dead is 10. In what the Panamanians call “the interior” of the country over 6,000 people, and 50,000 hectares of crops have been affected and domestic animals due to the heavy rains. In total, 33 communities were flooded.
And, now, as a repercussion to all of this rain, one of the water treatment plants has been working at only about 10% of capacity over the past 3 days. Too much mud is clogging the system. No one is sure when it will be fixed.
La Niña (“The girl” – a phenomenon that causes extreme weather) has been blamed for all of this. What’s the expression – “Hell have no fury like a woman scorned.” So, what did we do to upset this girl so much?
Tuesday, December 7, 2010
Expat Info Taken Directly from Cartus Relocation - My (few) Comments in Quotes
Market Focus: Panama.
Relocating, especially with family, is never easy. There are many changes that need to be handled and each family has different situations to address. In addition, there are other factors that may dramatically affect the success of the relocation process, such as the new location.
What makes a location more appealing than others to expats? Statistical information about countries offer a general perspective, but this article explores important categories that make Panama a pleasant place for expatriates to live.
Commuting time: It ranges from between 5 to 40 minutes from any point of the metro area to P&G Offices. Whether you like the urban or suburban lifestyle both are within reasonable time and distance from your main offices.
"This is quite true, for the most part. My husband can be door to door in 20 minutes as he travels counter traffic flow. However, traffic is getting worse. You just need to learn to schedule around peak hours."
Helpers: You do not need to plan a dinner out with friends two weeks in advance depending on a baby sitter… Simply decide to go on the spot! Domestic Helpers are part of the Panamanian culture, homes are designed with helper´s quarters, and salaries range from $250 to $350 per month.
"Ok, first thing you need to decide is if you want someone to live with you full-time. It may be the best decision you've ever made, or it could feel like the biggest invasion of privacy, depending on what you are used to or can get used to. Most internationals tend to pay around $400/month because cost of living is on the rise, and it just seems fair. I'm told that just a few years ago most people paid maids around $8/day, whereas internationals now pay around $20/day. Ironically, internationals are increasing cost of living by trying to pay fairly."
Groceries: Although Panama is a small place, its crossroads heritage has brought many ethnicities with their supply of ingredients in supermarkets, delis, and ethnic shops. In the main, everything is affordable… of course it depends what country you are coming from but most people will be surprised to learn that you can buy a whole 4.5 lb sirloin steak for your BBQ for US$14.00 (Shrimp, lobster and crabs are inexpensive too!).
"True. You can get almost everything you need, maybe not everything you want. One thing to note is that groceries, and many other items, tend to be cyclical. If you can't find something, look again in about 3 weeks (seriously) or in the case of vegetables, you may have to wait until next season. I remember wanting to buy a avocado for salad when we first got here and I was told every visit for 3 months that avocados would be arriving soon...meaning when they are in season in Panama."
Extracurricular Activities: Enjoy golf, scuba diving, surfing, ballet, yoga, soccer, football, baseball, martial arts, horseback riding, music… Pretty much anything but skiing! For your reference: Swimming private lessons range from US$2 to US$25 dollars; tennis from US$6 to US$25; piano or guitar $15 to $20 if the teacher comes to your place.
"For me, the challenge has been finding the activities in the city. So many things are advertised by word of mouth, or little pamphlets placed in some office, or social/country clubs, or in mommy groups or school...and recently, Facebook. I have no children, so I've stumbled through this process. Luckily, I have found the absolute best yoga instructor ever at Akila Wellness Center in Paitilla."
Continuing Education: In addition to local universities there are international universities such as Florida State, University of Louisville, Tecnológico de Monterrey, Georgia Tech Panama Logistics Innovation & Research Center, and others that offer excellent programs in Panama.
"I have a friend who got her MBA here from University of Louisville and another who got a specialization from Monterrey. I was reluctant to start a degree program not knowing how long we'd be here. This may be one of my regrets."
Outdoor activities: Nature in Panama is wonderful… A Dutch expat once shared, in genuine amazement, that she went with her 3 kids to Isla Iguana (Pacific Coast) and while snorkeling they witnessed humpback whales… Surrounded by the Caribbean and the Pacific, you can choose among many different beaches according to your preference: Deep sea fishing, scuba, snorkeling, surfing, sailing… You can also choose the highlands for coffee tasting, river rafting, canopy, trekking, bird watching, visit indigenous reserves, you name it… But whatever you decide, prepare to indulge in fresh lobster caught in front of your eyes in San Blas and cooked especially for you!
"I can't wait to explore more of this country. It is truly amazing. I'm a country girl who grew up on the coast, so getting out of the city is such a release for me - the beaches, the mountains, the rain forest...and the fresh air!"
Cultural activities: Let´s face it… the entire population of the country is 3.1 million so the cultural events on offer are not as extensive as those in big, international cities. There may not be that many operas but be amazed every month by folkloric events all over the country.
Returning to the world: And last but not least... If you decide to fulfill a personal growth experience by sharing your knowledge, talent and skills, there are a number of great causes where your voluntary work can make an impact on the environment and on the lives of others. Your talent will be welcome and appreciated in any of these organizations:
Mar Viva/Ancon – Environment Conservation
Hogar Malambo/Aldeas SOS /Casa Esperanza– Orphan Children homes
Hogares Crea, Cruz Blanca – Drug Addiction
Make a Wish/Fanlyc (Leukemia & Cancer) – Children with terminal disease
Fundacancer / Casita de Mausi – Cancer patients
Pro-Niñez / Fundación Pro-Niños del Darién - Children living in rural areas
Article provided by GS Relocation Panama
"Again, true. Very few cultural activities by US standards of a city the same size, but some great restaurants and a beautiful historic area. I have been going with a group of girls to Hogar Malambo, an orphanage outside of the city, to hold babies and play with toddlers. Just today, I attended a Christmas party that several girls from the group put together. They were able to get B-Happy, an indoor playground, to donate space and employee time, get gifts for the 50 kids who attended, have food/drinks donated, have Santa show up, AND get an amazing number of diapers, food items, cleaning supplies, etc. donated to the orphanage. I have never seen such joy in one place. So, if you miss the cultural activities, getting involved in social causes could really make a difference in how you feel about how you are spending your time."
Relocating, especially with family, is never easy. There are many changes that need to be handled and each family has different situations to address. In addition, there are other factors that may dramatically affect the success of the relocation process, such as the new location.
What makes a location more appealing than others to expats? Statistical information about countries offer a general perspective, but this article explores important categories that make Panama a pleasant place for expatriates to live.
Commuting time: It ranges from between 5 to 40 minutes from any point of the metro area to P&G Offices. Whether you like the urban or suburban lifestyle both are within reasonable time and distance from your main offices.
"This is quite true, for the most part. My husband can be door to door in 20 minutes as he travels counter traffic flow. However, traffic is getting worse. You just need to learn to schedule around peak hours."
Helpers: You do not need to plan a dinner out with friends two weeks in advance depending on a baby sitter… Simply decide to go on the spot! Domestic Helpers are part of the Panamanian culture, homes are designed with helper´s quarters, and salaries range from $250 to $350 per month.
"Ok, first thing you need to decide is if you want someone to live with you full-time. It may be the best decision you've ever made, or it could feel like the biggest invasion of privacy, depending on what you are used to or can get used to. Most internationals tend to pay around $400/month because cost of living is on the rise, and it just seems fair. I'm told that just a few years ago most people paid maids around $8/day, whereas internationals now pay around $20/day. Ironically, internationals are increasing cost of living by trying to pay fairly."
Groceries: Although Panama is a small place, its crossroads heritage has brought many ethnicities with their supply of ingredients in supermarkets, delis, and ethnic shops. In the main, everything is affordable… of course it depends what country you are coming from but most people will be surprised to learn that you can buy a whole 4.5 lb sirloin steak for your BBQ for US$14.00 (Shrimp, lobster and crabs are inexpensive too!).
"True. You can get almost everything you need, maybe not everything you want. One thing to note is that groceries, and many other items, tend to be cyclical. If you can't find something, look again in about 3 weeks (seriously) or in the case of vegetables, you may have to wait until next season. I remember wanting to buy a avocado for salad when we first got here and I was told every visit for 3 months that avocados would be arriving soon...meaning when they are in season in Panama."
Extracurricular Activities: Enjoy golf, scuba diving, surfing, ballet, yoga, soccer, football, baseball, martial arts, horseback riding, music… Pretty much anything but skiing! For your reference: Swimming private lessons range from US$2 to US$25 dollars; tennis from US$6 to US$25; piano or guitar $15 to $20 if the teacher comes to your place.
"For me, the challenge has been finding the activities in the city. So many things are advertised by word of mouth, or little pamphlets placed in some office, or social/country clubs, or in mommy groups or school...and recently, Facebook. I have no children, so I've stumbled through this process. Luckily, I have found the absolute best yoga instructor ever at Akila Wellness Center in Paitilla."
Continuing Education: In addition to local universities there are international universities such as Florida State, University of Louisville, Tecnológico de Monterrey, Georgia Tech Panama Logistics Innovation & Research Center, and others that offer excellent programs in Panama.
"I have a friend who got her MBA here from University of Louisville and another who got a specialization from Monterrey. I was reluctant to start a degree program not knowing how long we'd be here. This may be one of my regrets."
Outdoor activities: Nature in Panama is wonderful… A Dutch expat once shared, in genuine amazement, that she went with her 3 kids to Isla Iguana (Pacific Coast) and while snorkeling they witnessed humpback whales… Surrounded by the Caribbean and the Pacific, you can choose among many different beaches according to your preference: Deep sea fishing, scuba, snorkeling, surfing, sailing… You can also choose the highlands for coffee tasting, river rafting, canopy, trekking, bird watching, visit indigenous reserves, you name it… But whatever you decide, prepare to indulge in fresh lobster caught in front of your eyes in San Blas and cooked especially for you!
"I can't wait to explore more of this country. It is truly amazing. I'm a country girl who grew up on the coast, so getting out of the city is such a release for me - the beaches, the mountains, the rain forest...and the fresh air!"
Cultural activities: Let´s face it… the entire population of the country is 3.1 million so the cultural events on offer are not as extensive as those in big, international cities. There may not be that many operas but be amazed every month by folkloric events all over the country.
Returning to the world: And last but not least... If you decide to fulfill a personal growth experience by sharing your knowledge, talent and skills, there are a number of great causes where your voluntary work can make an impact on the environment and on the lives of others. Your talent will be welcome and appreciated in any of these organizations:
Mar Viva/Ancon – Environment Conservation
Hogar Malambo/Aldeas SOS /Casa Esperanza– Orphan Children homes
Hogares Crea, Cruz Blanca – Drug Addiction
Make a Wish/Fanlyc (Leukemia & Cancer) – Children with terminal disease
Fundacancer / Casita de Mausi – Cancer patients
Pro-Niñez / Fundación Pro-Niños del Darién - Children living in rural areas
Article provided by GS Relocation Panama
"Again, true. Very few cultural activities by US standards of a city the same size, but some great restaurants and a beautiful historic area. I have been going with a group of girls to Hogar Malambo, an orphanage outside of the city, to hold babies and play with toddlers. Just today, I attended a Christmas party that several girls from the group put together. They were able to get B-Happy, an indoor playground, to donate space and employee time, get gifts for the 50 kids who attended, have food/drinks donated, have Santa show up, AND get an amazing number of diapers, food items, cleaning supplies, etc. donated to the orphanage. I have never seen such joy in one place. So, if you miss the cultural activities, getting involved in social causes could really make a difference in how you feel about how you are spending your time."
Friday, November 19, 2010
Auto Shine Panama – a MUST if (or when) you have that fender bender
Although traffic rarely reaches speeds higher than 60 km/hour on most roads in Panama City (except the corridors and “cinta costera”), it tends to be chaotic and accidents are frequent. Just drive around the city for a day and you see how a two-lane road can become 3 lanes and have cars parked on both sides of the street despite the fact there is no shoulder, that a green light sometimes means go, but red usually does, and, because of the lack of respect for signals, intersection gridlock is probable. But what is inevitable is that there will be accidents – little fender benders.
Within the first month of living here, my car had a “parking lot accident” while I was in the grocery store, and my husband had the pleasure of being hit by a 1970s style tank of a car that promptly fled the scene. Two relatively small problems that insurance wouldn’t cover. And, then, I got the bright idea to lend my car to a friend while we were away. Please, no lectures, I’ve heard them all. Who lends a car? That would be me. And, yes, you guessed it, my friend was involved in a fender-bender.
Okay, good karma has not been the norm for me here in Panama, but then, we found Auto Shine! Auto Shine is a family-owned business that has offered services to conserve and protect cars for over 30 years. They do everything from window-tinting and detailing to, you guessed it, bodywork for those dings and dents!
Service was phenomenal. I drove my car to their locale on Via Porras in front of Calle 65, and Luis, the owner’s son and office manager, brought me back to the apartment. I was told work would be completed in 2 days, and in 2 days, it was done. Not only was it done, it looked brand new! Luis also picked me up for the apartment to get my car. Gotta love the personalized service! We were so happy with the results that we took my husband’s SUV to be repaired as well. Again, impeccable results.
Results are one thing, but pricing is important, too. Before looking into Auto Shine, I went to the Toyota dealer to find out how much it would cost to make repairs. I was told that the entire bumper would have to be replaced and of course, there was the possibility they would have to order other parts, and then there was the paint job, and... you get the picture. Auto Shine was straight forward, telling us what they thought they could achieve and for how much. Go figure, no new parts necessary. I’m pretty sure we saved anywhere upwards of 30%.
Net, Auto Shine gets my vote for repairing those fender-benders. Personalized service, honesty, and punctuality. Oh, and perhaps equally as important for some, both father and son speak English!
Within the first month of living here, my car had a “parking lot accident” while I was in the grocery store, and my husband had the pleasure of being hit by a 1970s style tank of a car that promptly fled the scene. Two relatively small problems that insurance wouldn’t cover. And, then, I got the bright idea to lend my car to a friend while we were away. Please, no lectures, I’ve heard them all. Who lends a car? That would be me. And, yes, you guessed it, my friend was involved in a fender-bender.
Okay, good karma has not been the norm for me here in Panama, but then, we found Auto Shine! Auto Shine is a family-owned business that has offered services to conserve and protect cars for over 30 years. They do everything from window-tinting and detailing to, you guessed it, bodywork for those dings and dents!
Service was phenomenal. I drove my car to their locale on Via Porras in front of Calle 65, and Luis, the owner’s son and office manager, brought me back to the apartment. I was told work would be completed in 2 days, and in 2 days, it was done. Not only was it done, it looked brand new! Luis also picked me up for the apartment to get my car. Gotta love the personalized service! We were so happy with the results that we took my husband’s SUV to be repaired as well. Again, impeccable results.
Results are one thing, but pricing is important, too. Before looking into Auto Shine, I went to the Toyota dealer to find out how much it would cost to make repairs. I was told that the entire bumper would have to be replaced and of course, there was the possibility they would have to order other parts, and then there was the paint job, and... you get the picture. Auto Shine was straight forward, telling us what they thought they could achieve and for how much. Go figure, no new parts necessary. I’m pretty sure we saved anywhere upwards of 30%.
Net, Auto Shine gets my vote for repairing those fender-benders. Personalized service, honesty, and punctuality. Oh, and perhaps equally as important for some, both father and son speak English!
Sunday, October 24, 2010
The reason you’re here makes all the difference (in my opinion)
I’m sure if you have read this blog from the start, you realize that my adaptation process to Panama has been a bit cumbersome, if not rocky. I attribute this to several factors:
• my husband’s extensive traveling, meaning I’m frequently alone
• the lack of a network or support system – starting from zero to build friendships and community
• losing a close friend only month’s after our arrival
• the language, making everyday activities just that much more exhausting
• the numerous difficulties in the apartment – that continue to persist (just this weekend we lost power to half the apartment, and we were told a subterranean cable is damaged – woohoo! – Can we dig up the building’s lobby please to find and fix it??? No? Oh, so no a/c, huh, for like, um, forever? Great.) The bright side is that this is a rental.
Over the course of this year, I’ve realized that not all people feel the way I do about this particular change in life. In general, I think people tend to fall into two categories – those who are here because they chose to come and live in Panama (e.g. those who wanted to start a new life and certain, more adventurous retirees) and those who came out of necessity (e.g. expats, transferees, and other retirees). I have noticed that those who came by choice, meaning they wanted to make Panama their home, tend to adapt much more rapidly and enjoy life here more than those of us who have come out of obligation. Why is this?
Well, think about it. Anything we opt to do is easier. When it is an obligation, our decision-making is compromised. Obligation flies in the face of our core value of independence, the ability to think and act by oneself. Therefore, those who are seeking something better – better weather and a lower cost of living if they are from countries like Canada or Ireland, for example – are acting independently and then assume the responsibility for their actions. They also know how long they plan on staying – until they start up and establish a company, for the rest of their lives, etc. Many times they bring what they want with them and leave their “life baggage” in their home country. Regardless, they make the decisions. I’m not saying that changes the circumstances in which they have to function. Panama is still Panama. We all live in the same place.
However, those of us who are here through obligation - be it through a work transfer or because one can’t afford to retire in one’s country of origin. Both of these situations compound stress. I can only speak for those who have been transferred here. Those of us who are living as expats normally have to live and act under two sets of rules: those of the host country while working under the requirements of the transferring company. Many times these rules clash. A very simple example: the relocation company needs a document within a week or you will not receive reimbursement for money owed to you, you won't get paid, etc., but paperwork in Panama will take a minimum of three weeks. The relocation company is working under US rules and can’t understand why, when you have a week to complete something, you can’t get it done. Obviously, you didn’t start your work on time. No exceptions. The Panamanian counterpart sees no need to rush. Everything will get done in due time – not your time. No worries.
Many spouses also find themselves unable to work due to Panamanian government regulations. My husband holds a work visa that allows me to accompany him in this country but not to work. (This is true in many countries, not just Panama.) If I would like to work, I may, but the company that decides to hire me must provide my work visa. In essence, they sponsor me. If that company provides a visa, then my husband’s company will wash their hands of me – I am no longer their legal responsibility. No big deal unless I lose my job, and then, according to Panamanian law, I have three days to leave the country. Just recently, the Panamanian government sent a memo to the company where my husband works reminding employees that spouses do not have the legal right to work. If it is found that a spouse is working, the company and the employee will be fined. Better safe than sorry, right?
Also, many assume that because you are transferred with a major corporation, there will be spousal support or some type of help in the adaptation process. This may be true in countries where multinational corporations have existed for a long period of time, but not so in Panama. Panamanians may be used to having foreigners in their land, but not until recently have they had to interact with them, and not until the last 2-3 years have they had to deal the large influx of foreign families from multinational companies. Through no fault of their own, they simple aren’t prepared for the demands of these companies, not to mention the families.
And, perhaps the most difficult point of all is that, for some of us, we were coming from ideal situations, where we had a strong sense of community and comfortable living standards. If we felt we had a choice, we wouldn't have left. This was my case. I was pretty darned fulfilled with my life – great social network, engaging activities, challenging job as an accent modification coach at a prominent university, and a comfortable living environment, both at home and in our city.
Little by little, I am creating that environment again for myself. Unfortunately, with my husband’s traveling, he is not involved as much in my new world as he was when we lived in the States. Just this simple point makes me believe that it will be difficult to ever think of Panama as “home”, because as we all know, “home is where the heart is”. And, if your heart is always traveling away from you, all you have is a house, or an apartment with so many daggone problems I’m lucky I haven’t ripped all my hair out. But, as I keep telling him, my goal is to love Panama so much by the time we have to leave – whenever that may be – that I leave crying. Right now, with the friendships I have been able to form, I’m pretty sure I’m be crying a river.
• my husband’s extensive traveling, meaning I’m frequently alone
• the lack of a network or support system – starting from zero to build friendships and community
• losing a close friend only month’s after our arrival
• the language, making everyday activities just that much more exhausting
• the numerous difficulties in the apartment – that continue to persist (just this weekend we lost power to half the apartment, and we were told a subterranean cable is damaged – woohoo! – Can we dig up the building’s lobby please to find and fix it??? No? Oh, so no a/c, huh, for like, um, forever? Great.) The bright side is that this is a rental.
Over the course of this year, I’ve realized that not all people feel the way I do about this particular change in life. In general, I think people tend to fall into two categories – those who are here because they chose to come and live in Panama (e.g. those who wanted to start a new life and certain, more adventurous retirees) and those who came out of necessity (e.g. expats, transferees, and other retirees). I have noticed that those who came by choice, meaning they wanted to make Panama their home, tend to adapt much more rapidly and enjoy life here more than those of us who have come out of obligation. Why is this?
Well, think about it. Anything we opt to do is easier. When it is an obligation, our decision-making is compromised. Obligation flies in the face of our core value of independence, the ability to think and act by oneself. Therefore, those who are seeking something better – better weather and a lower cost of living if they are from countries like Canada or Ireland, for example – are acting independently and then assume the responsibility for their actions. They also know how long they plan on staying – until they start up and establish a company, for the rest of their lives, etc. Many times they bring what they want with them and leave their “life baggage” in their home country. Regardless, they make the decisions. I’m not saying that changes the circumstances in which they have to function. Panama is still Panama. We all live in the same place.
However, those of us who are here through obligation - be it through a work transfer or because one can’t afford to retire in one’s country of origin. Both of these situations compound stress. I can only speak for those who have been transferred here. Those of us who are living as expats normally have to live and act under two sets of rules: those of the host country while working under the requirements of the transferring company. Many times these rules clash. A very simple example: the relocation company needs a document within a week or you will not receive reimbursement for money owed to you, you won't get paid, etc., but paperwork in Panama will take a minimum of three weeks. The relocation company is working under US rules and can’t understand why, when you have a week to complete something, you can’t get it done. Obviously, you didn’t start your work on time. No exceptions. The Panamanian counterpart sees no need to rush. Everything will get done in due time – not your time. No worries.
Many spouses also find themselves unable to work due to Panamanian government regulations. My husband holds a work visa that allows me to accompany him in this country but not to work. (This is true in many countries, not just Panama.) If I would like to work, I may, but the company that decides to hire me must provide my work visa. In essence, they sponsor me. If that company provides a visa, then my husband’s company will wash their hands of me – I am no longer their legal responsibility. No big deal unless I lose my job, and then, according to Panamanian law, I have three days to leave the country. Just recently, the Panamanian government sent a memo to the company where my husband works reminding employees that spouses do not have the legal right to work. If it is found that a spouse is working, the company and the employee will be fined. Better safe than sorry, right?
Also, many assume that because you are transferred with a major corporation, there will be spousal support or some type of help in the adaptation process. This may be true in countries where multinational corporations have existed for a long period of time, but not so in Panama. Panamanians may be used to having foreigners in their land, but not until recently have they had to interact with them, and not until the last 2-3 years have they had to deal the large influx of foreign families from multinational companies. Through no fault of their own, they simple aren’t prepared for the demands of these companies, not to mention the families.
And, perhaps the most difficult point of all is that, for some of us, we were coming from ideal situations, where we had a strong sense of community and comfortable living standards. If we felt we had a choice, we wouldn't have left. This was my case. I was pretty darned fulfilled with my life – great social network, engaging activities, challenging job as an accent modification coach at a prominent university, and a comfortable living environment, both at home and in our city.
Little by little, I am creating that environment again for myself. Unfortunately, with my husband’s traveling, he is not involved as much in my new world as he was when we lived in the States. Just this simple point makes me believe that it will be difficult to ever think of Panama as “home”, because as we all know, “home is where the heart is”. And, if your heart is always traveling away from you, all you have is a house, or an apartment with so many daggone problems I’m lucky I haven’t ripped all my hair out. But, as I keep telling him, my goal is to love Panama so much by the time we have to leave – whenever that may be – that I leave crying. Right now, with the friendships I have been able to form, I’m pretty sure I’m be crying a river.
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Reflecting on our first year – Words, Places, and Practices
September 6 marked one year for us here in Panama. I was reflecting on the year with my Spanish teacher (practicing the past tenses, of course), telling her how much my life has changed, how I have learned to appreciate what life has given me in the U.S. and here in Panama. I am learning to slow down – not be so “rigid”, as my mother-in-law says (oh, come one, I’m a Virgo, what do you want from me?) – in some ways I’m learning to accept mediocrity and be okay with it. You know the sayings, “when in Rome" and "Go with the flow"...
In the process of adapting, there are several words, places, and practices I have needed to understand in order to embrace living here. I have chosen four, for no particular reason other than that they have stuck with me:
“Coima”
A friend of ours had a rather unfortunate traffic accident a few weeks back, and he found himself handing a $100 “propina”, or tip, over to the police who arrived at the scene. It was either that or have the accident and his face broadcast on the Panamanian news. Awkward. Another friend was stopped for talking on her cell phone while driving (it’s against the law, by the way). When the police asked for a little $20 tip to make the ticket go away, she refused opting for the ticket instead – a nice $100 fine. “Coima”, or paying someone off to disregard the rules, is uncomfortable for many foreigners, but a part of Panamanian life to some degree. You may never find yourself in the position where you are asked for a “tip”, but you will inevitably know someone who has. The government is not blind to the situation as is demonstrated in the following headline from September 1, 2009: Filmed Police Identified Collecting Bribe (“Identifican a Policia filmado cobrando coima”) but I can’t help but wonder how they can change the situation. In my opinion, until public servants are paid fairly, I’m afraid “coima” will be a household word for some time to come.
“Avenida de Los Poetas”
Avenida de Los Poetas is one of the most beautiful street names in the city with one of the worst reputations. When coming back from the Causeway, or Amador, and heading back into the city, you have two choices – Avenida de los Poetas is one of them. Choose the other. Best way to make it home without incident.
Ironically, just yesterday, a friend and I were coming back from the Causeway, where we dropped another friend off, and much to our surprise “the other road” was completely blocked off by orange construction cones, forcing us to go toward Avenida de los Poetas. Okay, so here’s the scenario, two obviously gringa-looking ladies in a nice 4x4 driving closer to the ghetto, both understanding that options are limited. At this point, it looks like there’s one option – go straight. Visions of people coming out of their houses onto the streets to inspect and then strip down the 4x4 came rushing to mind. But wait, if we back up on the highway and cross the median, we can get back onto Avenida Balboa and avoid any problems. So we pull off to the side of the road to discuss if we’d be breaking the law if we backed up. Ok, seriously, only two gringas would have to pull off to the side of the road to ponder whether to go through the ghetto or back up on a freeway to safety!
Overall, Panama is a relatively safe place. I’m not trying to scare anyone. It is a city, though. All cities have good and bad sectors.
“Chiva”
This is a wonderfully entertaining cultural experience that you have to try at least once while in Panama. In Panama, a “chiva” is simply an old American school bus that has been repainted and converted into a party bus, or mini-discothèque. If you rent a good one, these things are equipped with a bar, disco lights, TV, A/C, tinted windows, dance poles, the smoke machine that is used at concerts, and a sound system that will jostle every organ in your body. You drive 5 miles per hour around the city for about 3 hours while drinking and dancing. Fabulous and a bit unreal.
“Primo” or “Mopri”
We have some Panamanian friends who have been just tremendously generous and hospitable with us. We get invited to almost all of the family functions – occasional weekends at the beach house, birthdays, sporting events, etc. In fact, the last time we went out with them, their dad pulled us aside and said, “You know you are family, right?” (Did your heart just well up 3 times its original size, and did you have the desire to give the man a hug??? I tell ya, when you are from a tight family and you have to leave them behind, hearing those words is like a thousand hugs being lavished upon you.) Ok, I digress an eensy, teensy bit.
Every time we go to a family event, we meet a new “primo/prima”, or cousin. At first, I was like – wow, how cool, such a big family, and they all like to hang together! Nice. Later I found out that there were almost no true, blood relatives among them. They were all good friends of the family. I have to say, as much as I love this family, I was almost a relieved to know they weren’t so prolific. So, long story short, “primo” is used for close friends. I’m waiting for the day when I’m introduced as the “prima gringa” – my Panamanian experience will have come full circle then.
Now, there’s also the word, “mopri” – a bastardized version of the aforementioned “primo”. You may hear on the streets people greeting one other with “Qué sopa, mopri?!” (Ok, all of you Spanish speakers out there – what does it mean? 5 seconds – go!) For those of you who guessed, “What’s up, Cousin?, you win! The Panamanians have an affinity for inverting and cutting words as well as supplementing badly pronounced English words for perfectly good Spanish words. (Case in point, “Esa ‘guial’ ‘ta buena” – That ‘girl’ is hot. Once again, subject for another day.)
So, the next time you hear a Panamanian say he had to pay coima while riding a chiva with his mopri, you will know exactly what he meant!
In the process of adapting, there are several words, places, and practices I have needed to understand in order to embrace living here. I have chosen four, for no particular reason other than that they have stuck with me:
“Coima”
A friend of ours had a rather unfortunate traffic accident a few weeks back, and he found himself handing a $100 “propina”, or tip, over to the police who arrived at the scene. It was either that or have the accident and his face broadcast on the Panamanian news. Awkward. Another friend was stopped for talking on her cell phone while driving (it’s against the law, by the way). When the police asked for a little $20 tip to make the ticket go away, she refused opting for the ticket instead – a nice $100 fine. “Coima”, or paying someone off to disregard the rules, is uncomfortable for many foreigners, but a part of Panamanian life to some degree. You may never find yourself in the position where you are asked for a “tip”, but you will inevitably know someone who has. The government is not blind to the situation as is demonstrated in the following headline from September 1, 2009: Filmed Police Identified Collecting Bribe (“Identifican a Policia filmado cobrando coima”) but I can’t help but wonder how they can change the situation. In my opinion, until public servants are paid fairly, I’m afraid “coima” will be a household word for some time to come.
“Avenida de Los Poetas”
Avenida de Los Poetas is one of the most beautiful street names in the city with one of the worst reputations. When coming back from the Causeway, or Amador, and heading back into the city, you have two choices – Avenida de los Poetas is one of them. Choose the other. Best way to make it home without incident.
Ironically, just yesterday, a friend and I were coming back from the Causeway, where we dropped another friend off, and much to our surprise “the other road” was completely blocked off by orange construction cones, forcing us to go toward Avenida de los Poetas. Okay, so here’s the scenario, two obviously gringa-looking ladies in a nice 4x4 driving closer to the ghetto, both understanding that options are limited. At this point, it looks like there’s one option – go straight. Visions of people coming out of their houses onto the streets to inspect and then strip down the 4x4 came rushing to mind. But wait, if we back up on the highway and cross the median, we can get back onto Avenida Balboa and avoid any problems. So we pull off to the side of the road to discuss if we’d be breaking the law if we backed up. Ok, seriously, only two gringas would have to pull off to the side of the road to ponder whether to go through the ghetto or back up on a freeway to safety!
Overall, Panama is a relatively safe place. I’m not trying to scare anyone. It is a city, though. All cities have good and bad sectors.
“Chiva”
This is a wonderfully entertaining cultural experience that you have to try at least once while in Panama. In Panama, a “chiva” is simply an old American school bus that has been repainted and converted into a party bus, or mini-discothèque. If you rent a good one, these things are equipped with a bar, disco lights, TV, A/C, tinted windows, dance poles, the smoke machine that is used at concerts, and a sound system that will jostle every organ in your body. You drive 5 miles per hour around the city for about 3 hours while drinking and dancing. Fabulous and a bit unreal.
“Primo” or “Mopri”
We have some Panamanian friends who have been just tremendously generous and hospitable with us. We get invited to almost all of the family functions – occasional weekends at the beach house, birthdays, sporting events, etc. In fact, the last time we went out with them, their dad pulled us aside and said, “You know you are family, right?” (Did your heart just well up 3 times its original size, and did you have the desire to give the man a hug??? I tell ya, when you are from a tight family and you have to leave them behind, hearing those words is like a thousand hugs being lavished upon you.) Ok, I digress an eensy, teensy bit.
Every time we go to a family event, we meet a new “primo/prima”, or cousin. At first, I was like – wow, how cool, such a big family, and they all like to hang together! Nice. Later I found out that there were almost no true, blood relatives among them. They were all good friends of the family. I have to say, as much as I love this family, I was almost a relieved to know they weren’t so prolific. So, long story short, “primo” is used for close friends. I’m waiting for the day when I’m introduced as the “prima gringa” – my Panamanian experience will have come full circle then.
Now, there’s also the word, “mopri” – a bastardized version of the aforementioned “primo”. You may hear on the streets people greeting one other with “Qué sopa, mopri?!” (Ok, all of you Spanish speakers out there – what does it mean? 5 seconds – go!) For those of you who guessed, “What’s up, Cousin?, you win! The Panamanians have an affinity for inverting and cutting words as well as supplementing badly pronounced English words for perfectly good Spanish words. (Case in point, “Esa ‘guial’ ‘ta buena” – That ‘girl’ is hot. Once again, subject for another day.)
So, the next time you hear a Panamanian say he had to pay coima while riding a chiva with his mopri, you will know exactly what he meant!
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